Chris' Journal
(OCTOBER 2005)
Monday, October 31
It's Halloween!! But, it's not like in the states. No trick or treaters .. and trust me, this is very good for us. We climb enough stairs every day without going to the door for candy!
So, a new friend today, over caffe, asked me what I missed most about living in the U. S. versus Roma? Here's my list:
1. Of course, our family and friends.
2. Pam cooking spray. Cannot find cooking spray anywhere.
3. Big rolls of toilet paper and paper towels from Sams. But then the question is -- how would I get the big rolls home? Kind of hard to carry a lot of things when on foot.
4. My Victoria's Secret lotion....so, I ordered the lotion, got the confirmation. Takes forever to get a shipment. THEN, I get a call from Federal Express - Italy customs does not allow personal shipments of cosmetics and beauty supplies.. Thus, it goes back to Ohio. Did you know VS was in Ohio? I thought they were somewhere really cool ---- like TEXAS.. (kidding)...So, I have to get a credit on Amex and buy LOCAL...when we go back in December.
Sunday, October 30
We went exploring today, and Rome is so easy to get around, especially on foot. From our place, we walked along the Tiber River, crossed the bridge and went to the Roman Forum ruins. From there on to Piazza Venezia, lunch, a gelato and a walk back home. I keep forgetting my pedometer, so don't know how far we walked today. It never seems like a terribly long walk, because there is so much to see.
Trastevere, the neighborhood where we live, is very crowded today. Lots of people walking around, the restaurants are full and there's several artists set up on the Piazza near by. Everyone is taking advantage of the fantastic weather.
Every once in a while, there will be an occurrence that makes me feel like I'm at Mardi Gras. In fact, there was one of those happenings this morning. I was in our kitchen (slaving over a hot stove), and looked out the window. The kitchen window is just across the street from a piazza. There was a man there urinating against the wall. It seems to be quite commonplace here. It certainly isn't the first time I've seen it since we've been here. Thank heavens John hasn't adopted that custom....yet!
Saturday, October 29
John has been working very hard yesterday afternoon and all day today on changing the times on Worldatlas.com since daylight savings time ends. It's a very time consuming project. I wasn't aware that some countries make local time zones decisions that deviate from the norm. Note the following information: India is +5½ from GMT, while Myanmar (Burma) is +6½, Iran is +4½, Iraq is +3½, Nepal is +5¾ and Central Australia is +9½. The Canadian island of Newfoundland is -3½ hours from GMT, some smaller islands in French Polynesia are -9½, while the Pitcairn Islands are -8½. I borrowed this information from worldatlas.com
It's quite interesting every day to check and see what our dollar is worth against the euro. Right now one dollar is worth about .82 euros. Ouch! So, every time you look at something, you add about 20% to the cost, assuming your income is based on the dollar. I check it each morning so I know if it's a good day to go to the store! The latest currency conversion rates are here.
Well, I've obviously not learned the Italian customs as far as "clean your plate". Even though the portions are smaller here than what they are in the states, by the time we eat a piece of bread, then a starter or a salad and then the entree, I cannot finish all of it. Furthermore, we don't even go out for dinner till around 9:00, as many of the restaurants are not open for dinner until 8:00pm. So, how much can you eat when you know as soon as you get home, you're going to bed? When I tell the waiter I am finished, invariably, the question is "didn't you like it?" I definitely like the smaller portioned servings and I guess that's why we haven't seen many overweight Italians -- between the smaller servings, eating much slower (like dinner takes a couple hours) and walking everywhere, they don't have a chance to get fat! At least that's what I'm hoping as I devour pasta and pizza.
Friday, October 28
Franchesca's mom, Maria, is visiting from Houston. We had a wonderful dinner with them last night. Lots of good laughs. The best laugh came from Maria's story about her Italian accent and working in Houston. She was talking with one of her clients about her new black purse. Her client thought she said Porsche. She was asking Maria how she liked her Porsche and Maria said she liked it just fine, but thought her gray one was better. Her client was quite impressed and said Maria must be quite wealthy to have two Porsches. Maria told her she also had a white one. This truly impressed her client who said that she wished she could afford three Porsches. Before the appointment was over, they realized they were talking about two different things. Now, when I can speak Italian, will my accent be misunderstood? Probably. I don't know what Texan Italian will sound like.
We heard a rumor that if we send mail from the Vatican postoffice, it will arrive in the states faster than by going to the regular postoffice. So, off we went today to the Vatican. It's only about a 15 minute walk (at the most) from our house to the Vatican. We can either walk right along the Tiber River or along the river road. So, we posted our mail. In order to determine which is the fastest, we sent two pieces of mail to Angel, our daughter-in-law in Houston. One was sent from the regular postoffice, the other from the Vatican. She will let us know which piece arrives first. They'll be easy to identify. Mail from the Vatican has the stamp with the image of the Pope.
We've learned the difference between the bums and the gypsys. The bums hang out, play music and ask for money to buy food. Most of them have dogs and take very good care of them. The gypsys on the other hand, will sit on the street, usually with an infant, and give you this most sorrowful look and ask for money. The Italians have told us if we want to help the bums, that's fine, but never help the gypsys. The gypsys will also steal your cell phones, your wallets, your purses. I haven't been carrying a purse much. If you wear jeans with pockets, you just need your ID and some money (of course).
Thursday, October 27
Bummer -- the Astros lost. We're disappointed.
Another glorious day here. We've been so lucky with the weather. I was looking at my grocery receipts from the last couple weeks. Food prices here are very reasonable, especially fresh fruits and vegetables. Fish and chicken are reasonable also. What's really expensive are the cleaning supplies and paper products. So, does that mean I should clean less? Try to be economical?
So, today is the end of our third full week here. It seems like we've been here for months. I think it might be that we feel so comfortable already - we feel like we're right at home. There's one thing I know I can count on every day. And that is the following quote from John: "They are just going way too fast for conditions." Everywhere we go are little cars and scooters with the drivers flying past us like they're warming up for the Indy 500. Even when the cobblestones are still wet from the morning dew, they zip by. A walker must be very cognizant of traffic. The best part is when we're on one of the very narrow streets in our neighborhood and a delivery truck comes by. It's up against the wall while the truck passes or the mirror may knock you out.
Wednesday, October 26
This was the strangest morning. John's at his desk by 7am, which is midnight in Texas. He's telling me the Astros are tied with the Sox. At 8:30am when we left for our walk, they were STILL playing. When we got back around 9:30, the game was over and sadly, the Astros lost again. But that means it was around 2am before the game was over. I wonder how many fans called in sick today.
My American side came out today at the grocery. Now remember, I have to walk to and from the store. But, we do have a little cart. I found out Wednesday is sales day and restocking day, so I took advantage. All the Italians knew I was an American (and it wasn't my language barrier) - it was because there were so many items on the conveyer belt at checkout. Two of them asked me if I had a cart to get them all home. I won't buy that much again. It's way too embarrassing.
Tuesday, October 25
Work, Work, Work !! I am learning how to help John with his website. It is very meticulous and requires great attention to detail. I like my little office area, but I'm on the lowest level, so don't know what the weather is like or even the time of day. As soon as our wireless is up, on days the weather is nice, I'm on the terrace !
First Italian lesson today. So, how do you learn the language? Well, first of all, we have to figure out if the object we are referring to is masculine or feminine. I didn't know that a casa (house) was feminine, but the terrazzo (terrace) is masculine. Does that mean Italy is not a community property country and that if a couple is divorced, she gets the house and he gets the terrace? Hmmmm….I like those odds !!
Monday, October 24
If you get up by 5am, you can watch CNN in English till 6. The news is a bit old, but at least we know what happened the day before. It's CNN International, so it covers everything and everywhere.
We began our walking program today. We had been kinda lax in our routine, but figure we were getting a lot of exercise between going to the markets, climbing the stairs in our home and exploring the city. But, it will be nice to get into the routine again.
Well, I have not started my Monday off real well. After we got back from our walk, I decided we needed a morning "jolt" of espresso or caffe. So, I get the espresso pot down, clean out the grounds from yesterday, fill it with water and put it on the stove. When I was pouring, John said "this looks kind of weak!" I realized at that point that I had neglected to add the most important ingredient - the coffee!
I decided to check out the other china that was in the kitchen cabinet, and as I pulled out the bowls, there was a cup inside..and of course, it fell and broke. That's the second cup I've broken in a week. I must have the dropsy syndrome. One of the things we've learned so far in this particular house is you can't turn the oven and dryer on at the same time, major power failure. Don't ask me why in power terms, I just know it means I've been blowing fuses like crazy!
Sunday, October 23
Beautiful day. All the windows and doors are open. No bugs to speak of here. I'm happy to report that we found a cleaning service. Rico (a young Filipino) will start in two weeks.
Titti (pronounced T T), our friend and Italian teacher came by. She is an instructor of the Italian language in several universities (including one in New York City). She lives across the street from us, so we are lucky to be so close. We start Tuesday. Titti is going to New York City in January for three months to teach Italian. She loves the states and would like to live there full time. She was MOST impressed by the fact that John was getting his clothes off the line on the terrace. Another reason she loves America. In America, men are not afraid to do laundry, cook, help run the vacuum. Here, Titti says, "men don't do anything that might be considered a woman's job." Good thing John was born in Wisconsin and not here. I would be working way too hard.
Saturday, October 22
I learned today that the clotheslines on our terrace will only handle two loads of wash. The dryer is great, but doesn't get as hot as we're used to, so takes forever to dry a load. Best thing to do is hang things out for a while, then put in dryer to finish (except for my unmentionables). Those do not hang where everyone can see them (yet)!
Later on the day we found our first restaurant we didn't like. We were anxious to try out Indian food just across the Piazza from our casa. (I was anxious to try, John went along to be a good sport). Other than bland tasting food and lousy service, the ambiance was great....too bad we couldn't eat it! When John's dessert finally came (rice pudding), I told him it looked like vomit. So much for his appetite!
Friday, October 21
We're off to the fund raiser at a restaurant/bar that's about 100 steps from our front door - Friends. It's an event for the United Nations World Food Programme and we want to support our friend, Francesca. Can't wait to be able to converse in Italian. Most people we've met speak English, but we want to be able to do more than just order food and drink and say please and thank you for those instances where no one speaks English.
Thursday, October 20
Rainy day. But we're so happy to have internet, we don't care. John spends the whole day updating worldatlas.com and graphicmaps.com. I am learning everything I can about transportation so that when we start our research trips, we'll know the best ways to get around. Sans vehicle.
Wednesday, October 19
Hurray !! Hurray !! Today is our luckiest day since we've been here. First: I pick up the phone to call our friend, Titti, who is going to teach us Italian. The line is dead. Now normally, I would say some bad words. Not this time. A dead line means our FastWeb internet should be up. I jump up and down excitedly and tell John "Hurray, the phone line is DEAD!" And, within a short period of time, we are on-line. Then, more exciting news. Air France has found my bag. They call and say they will deliver between 7:00pm and 11:00pm. Who cares what time? I will have clothes! John fixed tuna steaks for dinner. Yum !! We found Wasabi at the spice store.
Tuesday, October 18
There are no Victoria's Secret stores in Italia. I love their lotions. Go on-line to order lotions and body sprays. Guess what - they'll ship the lotions, but they won't ship sprays. Shipping charges are the same for six bottles as they are for 11. So, in order to be economical, of course I order 11. Walking is us.
Today we decided to explore since we still have no FastWeb (SlowWeb). We started from home, headed for the Pantheon, after exploring all the vendor booths at Piazza Novena. Then, over by the Vatican to the Vodaphone store where we bought our cell phones to ask a couple questions, then to the Spanish Steps area. Then, we were tired. Taxi back to Trastevere. Thankfully, taxis here are very reasonable and most drivers understand our badly accented Italian description of our final destination. Although it's pretty hard to mess up "Piazza Trilussa in Trastevere".
Monday, October 17
No internet yet. I am now wondering who this man is who is living with me in the same house. Couldn't be John Moen, you know the A personality that wants it done NOW. Well, this strange man is like "oh well, they'll get it sooner or later".
Back to the store for another grocery shopping experience. To get a cart at the store (they're all locked with a chain and key), you have to insert a coin into a little slot on the handle of the cart, and that releases the key. After you're done shopping, put the cart back, insert the key and retrieve your coin. I know that prevents stealing the carts, but here's the bigger question. The grocery market is on the lower level (basement). You either take the steps or an escalator. How would you get the cart up the escalator? That is my question.
Sunday, October 16
Learned about coffee today. We took Manuela, our real estate agent, to dinner as she has been such a big help to us with calling UPS about John's PC and also dealing with FastWeb (now named SlowWeb). After dinner she and John order coffee. Now here, is what we've learned about coffee - You never order a cappuccino after mid-morning - because of the milk. You don't want to spoil the digestion of your food. When you order a caffe in Italy, you get an espresso. If you add twice as much water, it's a lungo. If you add any more water, it's a caffe Americano and in Italia, is called "brown water" or "acqua marrone".
Saturday, October 15
Wow! what another beautiful day. Off we go - we want to explore as much of Roma as we possibly can. And, what a great place to walk in. Today, we head out to try to find the Jewish ghetto. And find it we do! We found a mini Wal-mart (not named Wal-mart), but has many supplies we need for around the house.
Friday, October 14
I go with Francesca to her office at the World Food Programme at the United Nations. Meet her boss and some of the staff. Great fun! Nice people. Then, all by myself, I take the train to the station, then board the tram and head back home. Made it!
Thursday, October 13
No internet service yet. John is still being patient. Amazing ! So, now we're off shopping again (for me, of course) No bag. Now, American Express is giving me money to buy clothes and other necessities since my bag is still MIA. This actually might turn out to be a good deal. Between the money from Air France and Amex, I've got about $320 to spend. Might well be worth the aggravation.
Wednesday, October 12
Beautiful weather. No internet service yet, so off we go exploring. When we were here in September looking for a place to live, Joanna, the owner of the apartment, took us on a tour of the area. One of the stores was a spice store that also carries a lot of American products. We found it !! Yeah !! Jalapenos!!
Tuesday, October 11
Laundry time. It takes TWO (2) hours for one load in the washing machine. And, one BIG load is two sheets, two pillowcases and a towel or maybe four pair of jeans and a couple t-shirts. No wonder people wear their clothes here several times before washing. No internet service yet. John's patience is admirable. He is taking his small laptop to the internet café to upload files and check e-mail.
Monday, October 10.
Of course, John's bag is delivered. Mine is still MIA. Off to the internet café we go. And, then, shopping we go. It's chilly here and the suitcase that arrived only has my warm weather clothes. So, Air France is giving me money to spend since my bag is missing more than two days.
Sunday, October 9
My first big trip by myself to the grocery. If I could read the labels, I'd know what I was buying - so we are experimenting. Francesca comes by to get me and we go for a caffe not far from the Pantheon, then to her apartment. She lives four minutes from us by foot (of course). Our legs are sore. Could it be from the three flights of stairs to get to our bedroom? It takes two flights just to get to the kitchen and living room. Plus, the riser is just a bit higher than what we're used to. I do believe that with all the walking to go to the market, the cleaners, etc. and the stairs, I will have discovered the cure for cellulite!
Saturday, October 8
Well, John and Giacomo are off on a big adventure - the computer store and our favorite place: Ikea. There are two Ikea stores in Roma. Because Giacomo's work van only has two seats, I stay home and further acquaint myself with our apartment. The biggest thing I learned is that the toilet in the bathroom on level one has the most powerful flush I've ever witnessed. My friend Francesca comes over. We share some snacks and the arrival of her friend, Doneena, who has just broken up with her boyfriend. We commiserate. Doneena is from Bosnia and works with Francesca at the United Nations. The men come back, we're off to dinner and back to our place for caffe. We stay up till 3am visting (that's a record for us)!
Friday, October 7
Are we nuts? It's 3:30am and we can't sleep. So, we're up and unpacking. Duh.The coffee pot is the slowest in the whole wide world. Must get a new one ASAP. 10:15am. Intercom buzzes and the installer for our FastWeb internet service is here. He speaks no English. We speak Italian like "Non capisco italiano. Parlate inglese?" He "non parlo". So, our friend Giacomo to the rescue! We take Giacomo to lunch as a thank you. Eating pizza here does not make me feel guilty as the crusts are so thin, thus they aren't fattening! I think!
Thursday, October 6
Long wait in Paris for connecting flight. Should only be two hours. We wait 4 ½ hours. Heavy fog all over Europe is delaying all the flights. We had very little sleep on the plane, but two double espressos give us that charge ! Arrive in Roma !! Three of five bags arrive. Oh joy !! We file the baggage claim, find our driver, and arrive at our new home! Good night or buonanotte as they say here.
Ciao for now!
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Flower boxes adorn many building in Italy, and most, like the one above, are beautiful.
John frequently calls me his "Angel," and I thought a statue of myself to be very appropriate.
Titti and me, our Italian teacher. She's a professor (la professoressa) and teaches language all over the world. She tells me privately that I am her star student. John never reads my journal so he'll never know the real truth about my linguistic abilities.
The Pantheon has survived plunder and invasions for 20 centuries to stand as the most complete example of Roman architecture known. As you can see, it's a very popular place to visit.
There's one building that's visible from all over Rome. It's the Number One tourist attraction on the planet, and you already know its name.
Trees, trees, everywhere there's trees.
More about this classic face later.